Building a ModelWorks 5700 Pannier Tank Engine in 5" Gauge
Running Board Supports, Wheels, Crank Pins, Coupling Rods and Brake Assembly
Kit 5 has five sub assemblies, the first is to fit the 4 Running Board Supports, each held in place with 3 bolts. In order to fit the left front Support, the procedure asks you to remove the Crosshead Pump fitted in Kit 4! Remember the Pump that is fiddly to fit! It is near impossible without removing the Slide Bars first to remove the Pump. However, without removing the Pump you can get the top and bottom bolts in. Two bolts are enough, making this a more than acceptable compromise.
Kit 5 - Assembled
Having cleaned up the Wheels, which did not take much as the castings are good, the next sub assembly is to glue using Loctite, the Crank Pins to the wheels. Before I did this I checked the fit of the Pins in the Coupling Rod bearings, only to discover that the diameter of the bearing surface of the Pins was 0.5mm too small. After contacting Debbie at ModelWorks, it turns out that I had Pins for the 14xx which whilst similar are smaller. Unfortunately this time it took a few weeks to get replacements because they had to manufacture replacements (what I would have given for a Lathe). Not a disaster however, because you can get on with other sub assemblies whilst waiting.
When the replacement Pins arrived and having checked they were correct I fitted them to the instructions. The Pins are glued in place using Loctite with the bottom of the Pin in line with the rear of the Wheel boss. To do this and to ensure an accurate alignment, I used a ground/square hardened steel block that came out of the bottom of my old tool maker toolbox. More on theses pins later.
The Coupling Rods are laser cut and ground on the front face only, therefore require cleaning up. Note that laser cutting produces a hardened surface that even a file finds hard to penetrate, therefore I do recommend the use of power tools first. I used my rotary (Dremel type) tool with a good sanding wheel for most of the cleaning up, finishing with smaller wheels, files and finally emery. Even using power tools this does take a few hours to achieve a good finish.
The Wheels can now be fitted to one side only first. These are glued on using Loctite and located using Keys.
When fitting the Wheels, only put glue on the Wheel and not the Axle. This minimises the risk of glue getting into the Axle Box bearings.
The Keys required the attention of a file as they are slightly over size, but must not be too tight a fit.
At this point I noted that the Crank Pins because they are in line with the Wheel boss can just touch the Axle Box. Ideally after gluing the Crank Pins, the rear of them should be ground back to ensure that they do not interfere with the Axle Box.
Once the Wheels are glued on they are very difficult to remove with out resorting to a blow lamp or cooking to 200c, and the use of a good puller. This I did not want to do. Therefore, I removed the front and rear Wheel assemblies and managed to grind with my rotary tool the rear of the Pins. On the centre axle this is impossible, so I checked the clearance and all looked ok. Before fitting the Wheels on the other side I ground the rear of the Crank Pins first.
The assembled (and painted) Brake assembly can now be fitted.
Read the Build Story by Kit:
Copyright © 2005 Whiteice.co.uk All Rights Reserved